post via https://madeinmarseille.net/Marseille ,
city with an authentic and rebellious fiber, teeming with a young generation of creators determined to do battle with the codes of fast fashion: ideas are flowing to make something new out of old, in a way that favors sustainability, ethics and quality, for the benefit of a literally timeless style.
Atelier Regain revamps second-hand clothes
Launched in 2021, Atelier Regain combines creation, professional integration and textile recycling. At the origin of this upcycled couture brand: the Frip'Insertion association, member of the Emmaüs movement and project for the revaluation of donated clothing.
These are carefully sorted and selected by stylist Monia Sbouaï, who creates practical, modern and minimalist collections, while favoring “sober and refined patterns, plain, striped or checked fabrics,” explains the project manager. We then create patterns to be able to use the shapes several times in different materials.”
Four seamstresses on an integration course then create each piece from A to Z, from cutting to sewing, in their workshop in downtown Marseille. Their online store displays around a hundred original pieces, produced on a small scale for women, men and children, as well as bags, hats and household linen. To try out their creations, an Atelier Regain corner has been created within the Center Bourse shopping center (1st). Since its launch, the brand has made more than 1,000 garments from upcycled textiles.
Marj, streetwear version of upcycling
Passionate about fashion since she was eight years old, Charlotte Labigne always knew that she would one day have her own clothing brand. A few years working in the ready-to-wear industry, as well as a trip to Indonesia during which she discovered the devastating impact of the textile industry on the environment, led her to create Marj : a eco-responsible label with resolutely streetwear and Y2K inspirations, which is mainly aimed at young people. “The idea was to offer an alternative to existing upcycling brands, which are often very feminine and classic,” explains the founder.
She imagines her collections based on materials “saved” from dormant stock resale platforms. Its credo: “ to offer non-gendered, comfortable clothing that adapts to as many body types as possible”. In the interest of durability, many pieces are adjustable so they can be worn for as long as possible. Marj clothing is produced in small quantities, until the end of the rolls of fabric that compose them are reached. Its collections are therefore independent of the seasons.
SaintLoup, second hand to unique piece
In parallel with their tailoring and alterations workshop, Kevin Mariani and Jérémy Caiazzo set about creating exclusive pieces made from second-hand clothing. This is how the SaintLoup brand was born. Their raw material? “Fabric that has already lived” : second-hand clothes found “at Emmaüs or on Vinted, donations of clothing or end of rolls of fabric from luxury houses,” explains Jérémy, who manages the commercial part, while Kevin is in charge of the design.
Although they are not fans of thrifting for personal consumption, both designers are aware of overproduction in the fashion industry. “Having worked in retail for ten years, I saw it with my own eyes, it’s too much,” admits Jérémy. Even if we are not anti-consumption, the idea is to offer an alternative. We are in a circular economy logic, yes, but our product is new and qualitative. We revalue a textile, but even more, we transform it.”
The very first SaintLoup capsule collection of 12 unique “full denim” pieces, all jackets for women, was released last February. A second capsule, which should feature mixed pieces, is due to be unveiled in the spring.
© SaintLoup / Rromain Trouillebout
Georgjia Aura, inspired by nature
Authentic, hybrid and mystical. It is with these three words that Jade Tekhil describes her very young clothing brand Georgjia Aura . They also summarize the designer’s poetic approach to fashion, who “often imagines stories behind [her] collections”.
Like its first Dandelion capsule, inspired by the dandelion, this unloved flower but symbol of resilience, it “always tries to bring symbolism, through patterns or accessories, while remaining easily wearable”. Pieces with a sportswear and feminine aesthetic, for which she creates the patterns and prototypes herself, before having them designed, to order, in a Marseille workshop.
Jade obtains end of stock from French brands, or collects fabric donations from those around her. She also creates unique “ ritual accessories, inspired by gris-gris ” from second-hand jewelry or trinkets found in flea markets. “ I like to reuse objects from the past, it allows the person who appropriates the piece to create their own story,” continues the stylist. Its next launch, scheduled for the end of May, will be influenced by dance and the bright colors of the disco movement.
© Georgjia Aura / Valentin Klinger